flag of Lula, Gil do Vigor and Márcia Pantera; last day

São Paulo Fashion Week reached the end of the N53 edition on Saturday night (4) and one of the highlights on the last day was the newcomer on the physical catwalks, LED.

Commanded by Minas Gerais stylist Célio Dias, the collection was presented by several celebrities at Komplexo Tempo, in the East Zone of São Paulo: such as singer Mateus Carrilho and former BBBs, such as Mari Gonzalez, Thais Braz and Gil do Vigor.

The economist, who shared his anxiety earlier through Instagram posts, paraded a piece written on his chest with the words “Bicha Vigorosa” — pride that Célio Dias, from LED, has always represented through his genderless brand.

LED |  SPFW N53 - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

LED | SPFW N53

Image: Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

LED |  SPFW N53 - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

LED | SPFW N53

Image: Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

In its face-to-face debut, the collection entitled “Sinto Tanto” brought the miner’s perspective on his feelings, intensity and past relationships.

“‘I’m sorry’ was my most beautiful way of being able to talk about a pain. As a good Piscean that I am and passionate about people, disappointments have always taken me to sad places. This time, I decided to put everything out and assume my feelings, sharing with everyone I’ve lived through, playing this collection to the world”. account.

The pieces were developed in natural fabrics, such as cotton, silk and viscose, combined with technological fabrics, thus allowing exclusive shapes.

Crochet, which is already a LED trademark, gained new possibilities and relevance with fringes and unusual shapes. building fashion images that carry the brand’s Minas Gerais DNA and irreverent traits.

At the end of the parade, Célio appeared on the catwalk and, even more clearly than João Pimenta on the 4th day of the SPFW, raised a flag of former President Lula.

The stylist Célio Dias, name behind the LED brand, with the flag of the presidential candidate Lula at the end of the parade - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

The stylist Célio Dias, the name behind the LED brand, with the flag of the presidential candidate Lula at the end of the parade

Image: Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

Isaac Silva

Responsible for the last show presented at SPFW N53, Isaac Silva created a collection in honor of Marcia Pantera, a drag queen who was a precursor of hair-beating and a great artist of the São Paulo nightlife, uniting drag art with Eartha Kitt, the first black Catwoman. .

Pantheronism, strength and always being able to believe”, said Isaac, in an interview with Ourabout the message he wanted to convey with the clothes presented — which addressed both ends, from white, with tailoring, to black, present in velvety fabrics.

The models appeared in luxurious pieces, full of shine, and the highlight was a block of 7 looks produced in sustainable and innovative fabric, made from hemp, the result of a partnership with the Brazilian multinational Vicunha. The fiber, which is from the Cannabis sativa species, is durable, breathable, antibacterial, biodegradable and hypoallergenic, in addition to being one of the least aggressive cultures for the environment.

The political-social content, always present in Isaac’s collections, was also present in the tribute, which was attended by names such as Thelma Assis, Thaynara OG, Icaro Silva, Preta Ferreira, Erika Hilton, among others. “The parade is the best way to demonstrate our art of dressing, of making clothes. As long as I can parade, I’ll do it, but with all possible care”.

Isaac Silva moodboard for the collection "pantherone" - Personal Archive - Personal Archive

Moodboard by Isaac Silva for the “Panterona” collection

Image: Personal Archive

About being the name responsible for closing this edition, Silva says: “To be able to close the fashion week is to show that all the brand’s purposes are going well. In the certainty that we are contributing to a new fashion: that of diversity, sustainability and love .”

Neriage

Neriage |  SPFW N53 - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

Neriage | SPFW N53

Image: Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

Neriage |  SPFW N53 - Marcelo Soubhia/ @agfotosite - Marcelo Soubhia/ @agfotosite

Neriage | SPFW N53

Image: Marcelo Soubhia/ @agfotosite

In the summer 2023 season, Neriage talked about the pause and the images produced by time, using the sea as an imagery reference.

Alice Braga, Brazilian actress, was invited to represent this partnership. “I think of time as the lord of life, of destiny. We often live either in the past or in the future, in what could have been or what perhaps will still be. We always want more of time”.

The collection has a gradation of colors from sand and gold to red and blue, referring to the shine of stars with Swarovski crystals, textures of fishing nets and different types of linen, satin silks and our classic pleats.

Basic Soul

Basic Soul |  SPFW N53 - Henrique Rezende - Henrique Rezende

Basic Soul | SPFW N53

Image: Henrique Rezende

The collection continues to bet on upcycling with textile waste from the industry, in partnership with Capricórnio Têxtil, and re-cycling of vintage pieces with contemporary tailoring that carry the brand’s DNA, ageless, oversized shapes and ecological fabrics with low environmental impact.

Weider Silveiro

Weider Silveiro |  SPFW N53 - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

Weider Silveiro | SPFW N53

Image: Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

Weider Silveiro |  SPFW N53 - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

Weider Silveiro | SPFW N53

Image: Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

Womanizer is an English word used to refer to conquering men, but Weider Silveiro subverts the term to name the collection that stars in the stylist’s third participation in São Paulo Fashion Week, the second in face-to-face format.

“The collection is called Womanizer because I am absolutely womanizer, apart from the sexual connotation, of course. I am an admirer of the female figure”, explains Weider.

References in the stylist’s repertoire range from Hellenic beauty, which guides the visual culture of the West since Ancient Greece, to the current dress codes, influenced by today’s behavioral trends, to build practical, urban and, above all, feminine clothes. .

The elements that define the Weider Silveiro brand identity, such as floral prints, tailoring and pleats, demonstrate the continuous evolution of the stylist’s aesthetic and gain more contemporary appeal this season.

az Marias

Az Marias |  SPFW N53 - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

Az Marias | SPFW N53

Image: Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

Az Marias |  SPFW N53 - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite - Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

Az Marias | SPFW N53

Image: Marcelo Soubhia/@agfotosite

In her third show at SPFW, stylist and costume designer Cíntia Félix spared no references to the collection “O Futuro é Ancestral”.

At the same time that the pieces presented are made in fabrics that value the quality and technology (see details in the attached table), with the purpose of environmental preservation through the durability of the piece and control of the production chain, the references of Fashion and creation are minimalist, focusing on ancestry.

“Regarding production, each of our pieces is handmade, with perfect seams, which will also last for a long time. All this adds value to the brand, to the product and makes it timeless”, says the stylist.

“This is a mixed collection but, more than presenting women’s or men’s pieces, we focus on real bodies, with the sizes and shapes of the Brazilian population”, adds Cíntia.

FROM PEDRO

DEPEDRO |  SPFW N53 - Saulo Rocha - Saulo Rocha

DEPEDRO | SPFW N53

Image: Saulo Rocha

Called Audaz: A flight through the Sertão, the collection features DEPEDRO’s trademark crochet mixed with linen and sustainable viscose made from banana peel.

“Audaz symbolizes this curious story behind the first flight in the hinterland, which caused great amazement among the people and was news in the newspapers. It was a historical fact for my region and that’s why I invited the plastic artist and fellow countryman Mocó, now based in California and author of naive works with a pop touch, to tell this story through the junction of our arts”, says Marcus Figueiredo, creative director of DEPEDRO.

Mother’s Hand Workshop

Mother's Hand Atelier |  SPFW N53 - Edgar Azevedo - Edgar Azevedo

Mother’s Hand Workshop | SPFW N53

Image: Edgar Azevedo

The Bahian brand Ateliê Mãoe de Mãe, already a veteran at São Paulo Fashion Week, presented its new collection inspired by the Maragogipinho community, located in Recôncavo Baiano.

The region is one of the largest centers of Brazilian handicrafts and the collection pays tribute to this production chain that lives from manual arts, as well as the brand, which brings crochet as a great highlight.

Made of 100% cotton and natural trims, the pieces developed by creative directors Patrick Fortuna and Vinicius Santana, bring crochet techniques that refer to the craftsmanship of the region, such as clay paintings and Tabatinga flowers, in addition to crochet embroidery on crochet. — some pieces take up to 18 days to complete — which give the pieces an even more elaborate and valuable touch.

Among the more than 25 looks presented, a palette with colors for all hours of the day, in jackets, skirts, shorts, dresses and crochet coats that make reference to the 40s, with structured shapes in a mix of textures and impeccable modeling. .

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