10 references behind the looks of the Schiaparelli couture show – Vogue

Schiaparelli (Photo: ImaxTree)

Schiaparelli, couture winter 2023 (Photo: ImaxTree)

The winter 2023 season in haute couture debuted this Monday in Paris with a show by Maison Schiaparelli that conquered social media. The 33 looks created by Daniel Roseberry were shown to an audience that included fashionistas and celebrities such as Anitta, Emma Watson and Rita Ora.

With different silhouettes and volumes, there was no lack of historical references and iconic inspirations behind the looks. From Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist artistic roots (which are the subject of a new exhibition in Paris) to special details (like the “drawer pockets”), we’ve rounded up the 10 best references from the show.

1. Bouquet of flowers

Schiaparelli (Photo: ImaxTree)

Schiaparelli, couture winter 2023 (Photo: ImaxTree)

In one of the most famous anecdotes about her life (and which she loved to tell her friends, including the painter Salvador Dalí), Elsa remembers in her autobiography, ‘Shocking Life’, that she decided to put flower seeds in her ears, nostrils and throat to try to be a prettier girl, as her own mother accused her of being uglier than her sister.

Decades later, in 1936, the story inspired Dalí to paint women with heads covered in flowers. The paintings were a success and, in June 1939, the artist took advantage of the concept to illustrate the cover of American Vogue. This season at Schiaparelli, creative director Daniel Roseberry rescued the brand’s floral heritage in embroideries and applications that delighted the public.

2. Coat-drawer

Schiaparelli (Photo: ImaxTree)

Schiaparelli, couture winter 2023 (Photo: ImaxTree)

As with flowers, Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí’s relationship also inspired a long black velvet coat with “drawer pockets” in Daniel Roseberry’s latest collection. The piece is a reference to the coats created for Schiaparelli’s 1936-1937 haute couture season, which marked the designer’s first partnership with the surrealist painter.

Models wearing wool suits with Salvador Dali-inspired bureau drawer-like pockets by Schiaparelli *** Local Caption *** (Photo: Cecil Beaton)

Drawer dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, photographed for American Vogue in September 1936 (Photo: Cecil Beaton)

Shortly after launch, the models were photographed by the legendary Cecil Beaton for the September 1936 issue of American Vogue.

3. White sofa

Schiaparelli (Photo: ImaxTree)

Schiaparelli, couture winter 2023 (Photo: ImaxTree)

If Coco Chanel conquered the universe of accessories with the black quilt (which marked the iconic 2.55 bag), her rival, the Italian Elsa Schiaparelli, bet on the success of a white version. Inspired by the upholstery of the sofas and armchairs in her rented apartment on Rue de l’Universté in Paris, Schiap created pieces in the same light quilting, including a dress that made the cover of American Vogue in July 1938.

Elsa Schiaparelli on the sofa in her Paris apartment, 1936 (Photo: Getty Images)

Elsa Schiaparelli on the sofa in her Paris apartment, 1936 (Photo: Getty Images)

This is the second time Roseberry has referenced the iconic white topstitch, after including it in a bathrobe in the Summer 2022 ready-to-wear collection.

4. Measuring tape

Schiaparelli (Photo: ImaxTree)

Schiaparelli, couture winter 2023 (Photo: ImaxTree)

Long associated with Schiaparelli’s work, the hot pink color got its name after the designer launched her “Shocking” perfume in 1937, with packaging and advertisements in an electrifying version of the shade. The perfume bottle (shaped like the voluptuous body of American actress Mae West) was created by Argentine artist Leonor Fini, whom Schiaparelli met through Christian Dior.

Among the most memorable details of the fragrance bottle is the delicate measuring tape, which has already inspired Roseberry on countless occasions. This time, it appears in gold over an asymmetrical black coat, alongside other floral embroidery.

5. Bunches of grapes

Schiaparelli (Photo: ImaxTree)

Schiaparelli, couture winter 2023 (Photo: ImaxTree)

One of the most remembered plant elements in Elsa Schiaparelli’s works are the bunches of grapes. In addition to creating a fruit-shaped hat for her fall 1939 collection, she launched her first and only men’s fragrance, “Snuff” in the same year. Among the illustrations on the product’s packaging (the bottle was shaped like a pipe), there were two bunches of grapes.

Elsa Schiaparelli with a brooch in the shape of a bunch of grapes, in the 1950s (Photo: Getty Images)

Elsa Schiaparelli with a brooch in the shape of a bunch of grapes, in the 1950s (Photo: Getty Images)

Elsa also kept, among her favorite jewelry, a brooch in the shape of the fruit (a favorite among surrealist artists). In this haute couture season, grapes opened the show, literally, appearing in embroidery on the very first look. Roseberry has also referenced her curls in maximalist brooches and earrings.

6. Skeleton dress

Schiaparelli (Photo: ImaxTree)

Schiaparelli, couture winter 2023 (Photo: ImaxTree)

Another iconic creation by Elsa Schiaparelli is the skeleton dress, launched in the couture season for the summer of 1938. The collection was named “Circus” and the model itself was inspired by a circus performance, called “The Skeleton Man”. . After seeing the performance, Salvador Dalí suggested the idea to Schiaparelli.

In past seasons, the current creative director of the house has already referenced the historic dress and opted for subtlety in his most recent show. In the second look, velvet cutouts represented the ribs that, in the original model, were created in crepe and filled with horsehair.

7. Pin cushion

Schiaparelli (Photo: ImaxTree)

Schiaparelli, couture winter 2023 (Photo: ImaxTree)

In one of his most famous photographs, Schiaparelli poses in his studio with a double brooch in the shape of surrealist pincushions. In Roseberry’s hands, the shape inspired necklaces, earrings and even bag handles, albeit less pointed than the original pins.

Elsa Schiaparelli photographs in her studio (Photo: Getty Images)

Elsa Schiaparelli photographed in her studio (Photo: Getty Images)

8. The white dove

Schiaparelli (Photo: ImaxTree)

Schiaparelli, couture winter 2023 (Photo: ImaxTree)

In addition to Dalí and Jean Cocteau, another celebrated painter on Elsa Schiaparelli’s list of friends was Pablo Picasso. The designer herself used to say her favorite painting was “Birds in a Cage”, painted by Picasso in 1937. In the Cubist image, two doves (one white, calm, and one black, agitated) share a cage.

The bird inspired many of Schiaparelli’s creations and was recently revived by Daniel Roseberry in the form of a golden brooch that graced the exclusive dress created for Lady Gaga to wear at the inauguration of President Joe Biden in 2021 (the piece is even in the new exhibition Shocking!in Paris).

WASHINGTON, DC - JANUARY 20: Lady Gaga sings the National Anthem at the inauguration of US President-elect Joe Biden on the West Front of the US Capitol on January 20, 2021 in Washington, DC.  During today's inauguration ceremony Joe Biden becomes the (Photo: Getty Images)

Lady Gaga wearing Schiaparelli with the golden dove of peace brooch, created by Daniel Roseberry, during the inauguration of the President of the United States, Joe Biden, in 2021 (Photo: Getty Images)

In addition to the birds that adorned the hats created by Stephen Jones this season, the penultimate model paraded holding a white dove, with its wings spread out as a symbol of peace. Next to the gold details and the blue velvet skirt, the message was in clear reference to the conflicts in Ukraine.

9. Padlock

Schiaparelli (Photo: ImaxTree)

Schiaparelli, couture winter 2023 (Photo: ImaxTree)

Having debuted as a 1931 purse clasp, the padlock has become one of the main symbols of the Maison Schiaparelli, whose founder was openly superstitious and considered it a protective amulet. The element was revived by Daniel Rosberry at the brand shortly after its debut in 2019.

In the maison’s new haute couture collection, the padlock appeared in maximalist earrings and necklaces, stealing the show among the accessories.

10. Christian Lacroix

Schiaparelli (Photo: ImaxTree)

Schiaparelli, couture winter 2023 (Photo: ImaxTree)

Long before the debut of Daniel Roseberry in the creative direction of Schiaparelli, the renowned designer Christian Lacroix was invited in 2013 to make a collection of 18 models in honor of the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli (some of them are also in the new Parisian exhibition dedicated to the designer ). The moment is one of the most remarkable in the brand’s history, as it came shortly after the success of the “Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations” exhibition in New York, the theme of the 2012 Met Gala.

In addition, it was the first haute couture collection created for the maison since Elsa Schiaparelli closed the house in 1954 (although a show only took place the following year, in 2014).

Daniel Roseberry referenced the designer in one of the new looks: an embroidered orange bullfighter coat and a voluminous blue skirt, evoking Lacroix’s first collection, in the winter of 1987.

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