Jewelry that match the body and not the clothes. This is the premise that guides the creation of the pieces that leave the designer’s studio Fernando Jorge in London and go to stores like Bergdorf Goodman, Bon Marché, Barneys and Matches. And from there to the closet of Rihanna, Charlize Theron, Lady Gaga, Natalie Portman, Michelle Obama. “I use some very Brazilian clichés as inspiration: the beach, the exposed body, sensuality, and I transform it all into an easy-to-wear jewelry that can be used every day because it doesn’t match that outfit or style, but with the woman’s body.”
The Brazilianness is not just in the clichés, but in the stones chosen by the designer, colored like citrine, garnet and tiger’s eye, as well as diamonds, which fit into the curvilinear structures of gold. This idea started in London, during my Masters at Central St. Martins, a school that formed some of the main talents in English fashion. “I left there with a certain frustration at not having something with the Brazilian expression and I thought I could use my experience and baggage to follow this path.”
Read more: Louis Vuitton launches exclusive diamond jewelry collection
The year was 2010 and the world was experiencing the effects of the financial crisis. People were looking for something lasting to counter the instability and jewelry was on the rise. It was the perfect timing to launch his first collection. “I knew that, unlike what would happen in Brazil, in London I could reach the best stores not because of my relationships, but because of the design”, says the jeweler, who left Campinas (SP) at the end of the 90s to study design in the capital of São Paulo and, at the age of 21, he got a job in a jewelry factory. “There I learned all the steps of the process.”
In 2005, Fernando joined the creation team of jeweler Carla Amorim, where he spent three years. He then moved to London, where he did his Masters and opened his first show room. Gradually, he conquered space in the large multi-brands, famous and international clients and a space in the Bergdorf Goodman jewelry salon alongside the main names of world design.
Everything happened little by little over the 10 years since he opened his first show room. Just like jewelry, Fernando is a friend of time. He likes to say that he always did everything with a lot of patience and planning because he never had room for error.“I didn’t have a family with a name, my resources were limited and I always waited for the right moment to move. Making jewelry is my calling and I can do it my whole life, so I don’t need to be in a hurry for anything.”
* Report published in issue 97, released in May 2022
>> Apply or nominate someone for the 2022 Under 30 selection