“It’s very expensive, it’s a lot of risk and I still don’t consider Farm international. None of this would be possible without Farm Brasil”, said Marcello Bastos, co-founder of the company, when talking about what is fundamental to internationalize a brand without losing the Carioca essence.
Farm was the first success story on the second and last day of the Masterclass in the first edition of Rio Fashion Trends, held by ELA and Vogue Brasil magazines and mediated by ELA reporter Marcia Disitzer and Vogue Brasil fashion editor, Vivian Sotocórno, at the Fairmont Hotel. Until the 9th, the exhibition “À moda carioca” continues. It is open to the public, curated by Thomaz Azulay and Patrick Doering, text by Iesa Rodrigues and models by Gregório Faganello to Yes, Brazil, among others.
The first day of the event had the participation of Lenny Niemeyer, Oskar Metsavath, from Osklen, Sissi Freeman, from Granado, Sharon Azulay, from BlueMan, and Roger Sabbag, from Via Mia, with mediation by the editor-in-chief of Revista ELA, Marina Caruso, and the content director of Vogue Brasil, Paula Merlo.
Farm’s multicolored prints, worn by Anne Hathaway, exploded on Tik Tok with Taylor Swift and Ana de Armas wearing the same look. The only thing they didn’t model for was Jennifer Lopez, who on the Honeymoon preferred a plain Farm model.
The rise of Farm in the United States, according to Marcello, demanded that creative director Katia Barros dedicate herself exclusively to the project and had the support of consultants to position the product in the market according to the desire of the American consumer. The brand became recognized across the United States from sales corners in 60 Nordstrom stores and celebrity endorsements. “We started to enter Europe. We sold at Le Bon Marché last summer in Paris, we are going to open four stores in London and occupy 340 m2 in the Italian Rinascente, in Milan. By 2024, we will be equaling Farm Brasil and Global revenues”, stated Marcello.
Reserva already talked about innovation with Spriz NFT: can you imagine buying a sneaker and instead of taking it home, leave the model, well kept in the brand’s vault, valuing it for a few years? This will happen at Reserva, according to Pedro Cardoso, digital and innovation CMO (Chief Marketing Officer).
Reserva was the first Brazilian company to bet on NFTs. A project, according to Pedro, much studied to serve the NFT community. “We are now going to release the Spriz shoes in physical and avatar versions from Decentraland in the NFT Metaverse. We entered the snickers collector market. Each model will have a maximum of 81 units. And, for those who buy and keep it, the tendency is to value it. The consumer can keep it for 8 years and resell it at a higher price.”
Next, the CEO of Animale, Isabel Del Priore, highlighted the role of fashion as an agent of social transformation. “On the world stage today there are less than 30% women in top leadership positions,” she said. In August 2021, Isabel, who has already worked at Hermès in Paris, was invited by Roberto Jatahy, CEO of Grupo Soma (platform for brands such as Farm, Animale, Foxton and several others) to replace him in the position. Her biggest challenges: how to revitalize Animale for the next 30 years and as a Brazilian representative on the front of gender equality in the UN Global Compact, reach the target of 30% women in senior leadership positions by 2025 and 50% by 2030.
After presenting the summer campaign with the Italian model Vitoria Ceretti, photographed in Mexico, he said: “we will launch several lines, led by stylists and orchestrated by Eduardo Pombal: A. to go (comfortable), A. Style (from work to dinner ), A. Cruise (handcrafted and rustic), A. Sync (black in a more sporty look), A. Studio (contemporary for customers living in big cities) and A. 1 (luxury).”
Transparency, customization, new values from The Paradise and Handred: neither macro nor micro, how to work effectively at scale? What challenges do emerging talents face like Thomaz Azulay and Patrick Doering, from The Paradise, and André Namitala, from Handred, who has just turned 10. This was the topic of the talk that ended the second day of the first edition of Rio Fashion Trends. “We do it the old-fashioned way, we want this tete-à-tête in the physical store, which represented a turning point for our brands. We have a very large store routine. It’s really cool to see who’s buying,” says André Namitala. “In old-fashioned fashion,” continues Patrick Doering, “both Handred and The Paradise are bespoke. This customization, this exchange gives a lot of pleasure. I don’t mind seeing famous people in our clothes, the important thing is to move around.”
Biggest challenges? Heavy taxes, lack of investment, difficulty finding labor. Advice from André to get a seamstress. “Get out of the comfort zone. I would go to the seamstress’s house and I loved watching her make the clothes. It has no formula. It takes patience and cultivating your network of seamstresses.”
The big tip for those who want to undertake and create, according to Thomaz Azulay, is in addition to believing in the originality of the project, to be audacious”. For Patrick, the success of longevity is in the stock. Namitala adds: “having that originality is knowing that the product you make didn’t exist, there was no print for men or silk. We are salespeople. Selling is surviving”.
“What do you think only the new generation of fashion has?”, asked Vivian Sotocórno. “Care for the productive chair, concern for the origin of the fabric, new values and serving the customer in a customized way.” For André Namitala, more transparency in labor relations.
Guest Chicão Bulhões, Secretary for Economic Development, Innovation and Simplification, did not attend due to having contracted Covid 19 but on the big screen he spoke of investment in programmers to qualify manpower, boost and reduce bureaucracy in the fashion industry, which needs to be more well treated.
Bring on the second edition!
Rio Fashion Trends is organized by ELA and Vogue Brasil magazines, sponsored by Invest.Rio | City Hall RJ, Azul as Cia. Official airline and partnership with the Hotel Fairmont Rio.