Nothing was random at Louis Vuitton’s cruise 2022 collection show, held on May 12 in San Diego, California. After two years of pandemic, isolation, confined spaces, lack of horizons – real and figurative –, designer Nicolas Ghesquière chose the Salk Institute, founded in 1963 by Jonas Salk, an American virologist and epidemiologist who invented the first vaccine, as his location. against polio. A Brutalist gem designed by Louis Kahn over the sea of La Jolla.
Salk Institute, brutalist jewel designed by Louis Kahn over the sea of La Jolla, location chosen by Nicolas Ghesquière for the presentation — Photo: Getty Images and Disclosure
Nicolas always chooses architectural landmarks as locations for his shows, such as the Museum of Contemporary Art designed by Oscar Niemeyer in Niterói and the Miho Museum, near Kyoto, designed by IM Pei, the same architect of the Louvre Pyramid – where, incidentally, we just watched the maison’s summer 2023 show. But, in the case of this cruise collection, as important as its lines was the implantation: “The elements (of nature) are present”, Ghesquière told American Vogue. “The sun is the guest of honor.”
In the audience, many celebrities. Deepika Padukone, monumental Bollywood actress and producer and the house’s first Indian ambassador; Maude Apatow, Euphoria’s Lexi, who was in full swing at the time of the show; Phoebe Dynevor, of Bridgerton, in a darker-haired version; Léa Seydoux, Miranda Kerr, Ana de Armas, Emma Roberts, Chloe Grace Moretz, among others.
Wooden skateboard with metallic details — Photo: Getty Images and Disclosure
Precisely scheduled for 5:45 pm, in the travertine marble courtyard between the institution’s two identical concrete volumes, the show displayed clothes with fabrics that reflected the different nuances of the light at the end of the day.
Lauren Wasser wears a satin and silk metallic trench coat, padded polyester shorts and jacket and leather LV Archlight 2.0 sneaker. Everything from Louis Vuitton’s cruise 2022 — Photo: Getty Images and Disclosure
The two flanks of the walkway were separated by a trickle of water, and everything ended in the yellow, orange, pink, golden sunset over the Pacific Ocean. “I wanted the clothes to be like reflections, a point of contact between light and people”, declared the stylist.
As usual, with each new collection he revisits his repertoire and reworks some themes. On this cruise, there was the dichotomy between the structured forms and the fluidity of the draping, between the sandy, desert tones, and the metallic ones, the play between the maxi and the mini, the contrast between the majestic and the sporty, which came with aquatic references and also biker. Everything fluctuated between technology and nature. The models evoked warriors, goddesses, there were even those who said Amazons, in a poetic-futuristic mix with complex but very desirable silhouettes.
More than a beautiful show, it was a catharsis: a meeting between fashion, nature and science, the vision of the future of a brilliant and sensitive designer bathed in light and poetry at a time when we were all starting to emerge from the shadow of the pandemic, from the fear. In response to a shrinking, cornered world, Nicolas Ghesquière has given us hope and horizons.
Model Masha Skokova wears a draped linen dress and top and skirt with embroidery and sequin applications — Photo: Getty Images and Disclosure