He The slow but sure return of conservative style, bolstered by GenZ figures like Sofia Richie, is materializing this season in the most iconic silhouette in recent fashion history: new look. This haircut, popularized by Dior in 1947, once again gained extraordinary fame on the catwalk, it also began to gain weight on the red carpet, and its presence was no longer an anecdotal street style phenomenon. Of course we have seen it in Dior in the fall-winter 2023-2024 collection.when Maria Grazia was inspired by the singer Edith Piaf, Catherine Dior (the dressmaker’s younger sister) and the singer and actress Juliette Greco to form a series of sentences that directly linked us to the house’s most famous archival French piece. VersaceFor his part, he winked at a silhouette in a black jacket and gloves in the same color that Gigi Hadid opened it with. Show this season: a jacket with white buttons, a fitted waist and a skirt that, although it did not have the symbolic shape of a corolla, reflected the super-feminine spirit of fashion. new look. Bottega Veneta, Schiaparelli or Balmain, with a look that seems to have just been taken from a fashion magazine from the 1950s, also supported the triumphant return of this cut that accentuates the waist and bust. But what does return mean new look in 2023?
Dior, Balmain and Schiaparelli are some of the firms that have resurrected the New Look silhouette, each in their own way, in their Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collections.
A “new look” that influenced more than just fashion
Start over. In what context is the so-called new look? On February 12, 1947, the still unknown Christian Dior presented his collection. corolla in his studio on Avenue Montaigne in Paris. At a fashion show presented to a small group of people, including clients and the trade press, a set consisting of a jacket (named as Bar from shantung natural color with a bone for volume on the hips) and A-line crepe wool long skirt, complete with a lopsided woven straw hat and leather gloves.. The waist-hugging jacket and skirt created an optical effect of a wasp waist, giving an hourglass silhouette that was very different from what had been seen in previous years. Stiletto heels completed the look. Carmel Snow, magazine editor Harpers Bazaar While present at the parade, he called his models “new look” – a nickname that went down in fashion history. As the Costume Museum collects on its website, He new look not without criticism. For making clothes from the collection a large amount of fabric, which caused public outrage in the post-war context and in the context of rationing.
Dior’s so-called “New Look” consisted of a “Bar” jacket (natural-coloured shantung with bone to give volume to the hips), a wool crepe skirt, tapered shoes, leather gloves, and a hat woven from straw.
However, after the expulsion of Coco Chanel from Paris (until 1954, the dressmaker, accused of collaborating, lived in Switzerland), Monsieur Dior became the industry’s new favorite, becoming in 1957 the first fashion designer to grace the cover of a prestigious magazine. Time. WITH new look, the nascent feminine emancipation that was visceral in fashion through baggy silhouettes and the use of trousers, was buried in this conspicuous, refined and slender silhouette inspired by the delicacy and beauty of the flower. Chanel’s opinion on Dior’s design is well known. a feud that will soon hit the small screen in A New Look, TV series starring Juliette Binoche. This fashion milestone, which saw the light in 1947, is still relevant today. Actress in 2019 Elle Fanning once again showed her passion for off-trend fashion by attending the Cannes Film Festival wearing a Dior outfit that pays homage to the French couturier’s silhouette. over seventy years ago.
At the 2019 Cannes Film Festival, actress Elle Fanning paid homage to Monsieur Dior’s most famous look with an ensemble consisting of an organza blouse, an A-line pleated skirt and a wicker hat.
carpet inspiration
Although the return of this 50s contour is currently relegated to the domain of fashion’s most seasoned experts, its growing popularity keeps us keeping an eye on it throughout these months. Given that fashion is often a reflection of the times, intrusion of classical style as antithesis to extravagant and explosive mixtures two thousand, This does not go unnoticed in a context where ultra-conservative politics are gaining ground. in places in the US and European countries ruled by parties that question the rights of LGTBIQ+, such as Italy or Hungary. Can any connection be made between the rise of ultra-conservative movements and this formal, reserved and even modest way of dressing? For now The examples seen on the red carpet and street style make us think it’s just another trend. Among familiar faces who said “yes” new look This year we find always stylish Natalie Portman and another actress Jennifer Lawrence, whose look for the promotion of her film “Sin Malos Rollos” let us know that she is experimenting with a new sophisticated and sophisticated style. Translator Anya Taylor Joy She also fell for this trend, yes, in her less traditional version: in a Nude Dior mesh dress.
In recent months, actresses such as Natalie Portman (Dior), Jennifer Lawrence (Armani Privé) and Anya Taylor Joy (Dior) have opted for models that accentuate the waist.
Repair in the style of Street Style
silhouette new look it is alive because it is in continuous evolution, subject to change determined by the dominant trends of the moment. Together with stakes that keep the original aesthetic almost unchanged, the street style of Copenhagen (a city that kicks off a busy September with its fashion Week) we’ve seen updates that take this hyper-feminine cut more street-ready.
Always in a midi cut, the A-line silhouette of the skirt captures the classic look of this blend, updated with the outerwear they pair with. The aforementioned Bar jacket and its jacket or peplum jacket equivalents are replaced by sweatshirts oversized worn under a skirtTo (as chosen by Danish stylist Emily Sindlev) or with high waisted leather jackets to emphasize this part of the body (as recently worn by stylist Nina Sandbech). In short, it is enough to make more or less subtle changes to the upper part of the image to give new life to the most revolutionary silhouette in the history of fashion in the 20th century.
Copenhagen’s street style showcases the almost limitless possibilities of a new “new look”, the protagonist of some of the most daring outfits seen on the streets of the Danish capital.